How to make Luna Cardigan in 9 sizes

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Whether you’re layering it over a simple tee for a relaxed weekend look or dressing it up for brunch with friends, this cardigan strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style!

Sizing and Yarn Quantities

The Luna Cardigan is an oversized fit with up to 15-20.5cm (6-8inch) positive ease.

	XS	S	M	L	XL
To fit chest size	71-76cm 28-30in	81-86cm 32-34in	91.5-96.5cm 36-38in	101.5- 106.5cm 40-42in	112- 117cm 44-46in
Approx. Yardage	1155	1194	1467	1564	1875
Balls	3 x 100g	1 x 400g	1 x 400g	1 x 400g 1 x 100g	1 x 400g 1 x 100g

	2X	3X	4X	5X
To fit chest size	112-127cm 48-50in	132-137cm 52-54in	142-147cm 56-58in	152.5- 157.5cm 60-62in
Approx. Yardage	1978	2403	2510	2953
Balls	1 x 400g 2 x 100g	1 x 400g 3 x 100g	1 x 400g 3 x 100g	2 x 400g

Yardage is approximate. The yarn I have used comes in 400g balls and 100g balls, the balls recommended above will help get the yard for the lowest price.

	Centimetres	Inches
A = Length	53.5 (53.5, 58.5, 58.5, 63.5) (63.5, 68.5, 68.5, 79)	21 (21, 23, 23, 25) (25, 27, 27, 31)
B = Width	46 (51, 56, 61, 66) (70, 76, 81.5, 86.5)	18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (27.5, 30, 32, 34)
C = Circumference	91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) (142, 152.5, 163, 173)	36 (40, 44, 48, 52) (56, 60, 64, 68)
D = Neckline	All: 9.75	All: 3.75
E = Armhole Depth	16.5 (18, 19, 20.5, 21.5) (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5)	6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)

Measurements after blocking and do not include ribbing.
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Customisation

Bodies come in all shapes and sizes, so you may find that you want to adjust your sizing to suit your own body or your own taste.

Sleeve length

If you decide that you want your sleeves longer or shorter, you can adjust the amount of rows you would like prior to adding the ribbing.
If you would like to adjust the arm depth, you can refer to the sizing chart and work to the instruction of another size.

Length

Similarly to the sleeves, if you decide that you would like your cardigan longer/shorter, you can choose your foundation row based on the length of each size.
Or add/remove stitches in multiples of 2. You’ll simply halve this number when it comes to the neckline split.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is written in UK terms but switchable to US terms below.
This cardigan is made in one piece by working the body before adding the sleeves straight to the body. You will then seam before adding the ribbing which includes button holes.
The number references for each size will be listed as follows:
XS (S, M, L, XL/2X) (3X, 4X, 5X)
Please read through the whole pattern before starting

Gauge

15 sts X 11.5 rows measured over htr and 4in X 4in (10cm x 10cm)

Gauge Swatch

With 5mm, ch 26
Row 1: Working in the back bumps of the ch, htr in third ch from hook (missed chs count as st) and each ch across. Turn.
Row 2-17: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn. Fasten off.

Pattern Support

The fastest way to get pattern support is to ask in our dedicated facebook group for Bella Coco Crochet patterns. This is the best place for you to connect with other crocheters.

Please note, if you wish to change and adapt this pattern in any way, this must be done at your own exploration and we cannot offer assistance with this.

Convert Pattern Terms

Here you can quickly switch between UK and US crochet terms. This will make following the pattern easier as all terms will be converted to your preferred version.

Terms & Abbreviations

Stitch(s): st(s)
Space(s): sp(s)
Repeat: rep
Slip Stitch(s): ss(s): Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook.
Chain(s): ch(s): Yarn over, pull through loop on the hook.
Double Crochet(s): dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Half Treble Crochet(s): htr(s): Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining three loops.
Back Loop Only: BLO: Working into the back loop only of the stitch.

Special Stitches

Stacked Double Crochet(s): sdc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Insert hook into the post of the stitch which is furthest away from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Double Crochet two together: Dc2tog: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.

How to Crochet – A Handy Reference Guide eBook

Unsure of the differences between UK and US terms? Need a refresher on how to do your crochet stitches? In my ‘How to crochet: A handy reference guide’ EBook I help you with all of these terms and you can always have them to hand! You will also get exclusive access to free video instructions. You can find my EBook HERE.

PDF Pattern

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Free Pattern: The Luna Cardigan

You are viewing this pattern in UK terms.

Main Body (made in one piece): Part one

With 5mm hook, Ch 159 (159, 175, 175, 191) (191, 215, 215, 235)
Row 1: Working in the back bumps of the ch, htr in third ch from hook (missed chs count as st) and each ch across. Turn.

Row 2-20 (22, 26, 28, 32) (34, 38, 40, 44): Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

Neckline split

Row 21 (23, 27, 29, 33) (35, 39, 41, 45): Sdc in first st, htr in next 78 (78, 86, 86, 94) (94, 106, 106, 116) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

XS

Rows 22-31: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

S

Rows 24-33: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

M

Rows 28-37: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

L

Rows 30-39: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

XL

Rows 34-43: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

2X

Rows 36-45: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

3X

Rows 40-49: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

4X

Rows 42-51: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

5X

Rows 46-55: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

Main Body: Part two

Do not fasten off your yarn, you will now be making a chain before moving onto the next rows.
Chain 80 (80, 88, 88, 96) (96, 108, 108, 118)

Row 32 (34, 38, 40, 44) (46, 50, 52, 56): Working in the back bumps of the ch, htr in third ch from hook (missed chs count as st) and each ch and st across. Turn.

XS

Rows 33-51: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

S

Rows 35-55: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

M

Rows 39-63: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

L

Rows 41-67: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

XL

Rows 45-75: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

2X

Rows 47-79: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

3X

Rows 51-87: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

4X

Rows 53-91: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

5X

Rows 57-99: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Sleeves (repeat on both sides)

Set up: The sleeves of the cardigan are going to be crocheted straight onto the main body of your cardigan. This means you will be working into the final row of the main body and the underside of the chain from row 1. Locate the centre on each side, count 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) (33, 36, 38, 39) sts either side of the centre and mark each side with a stitch marker.
Row 1: Working in the opposite way to the last row your working into, join with ss to first marked st. Work a sdc in first st, htr in each st to next marked st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Row 2-40: Sdc in first st, htr in each st across. Turn.

Size 2X and 5X ONLY

Row 41: Ch 1, dc2tog across.

All other sizes

Row 41: Ch 1, dc in first st, dc2tog across until you have 1 st remaining, dc in last st.
Note: If you wish to decrease the wrist opening even further, you can add another row, adding the number of decreases you desire, just ensure your final row count is an odd number.

Time to block

Now is the time to steam block your work. Use blocking pins and mats to shape your work ensuring that each side is the same size. Use measurements given above as a guide.

Cuff Ribbing

Change to 4.5mm hook
Chain 11

Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the last row of the sleeve. Turn. dc, 2 ss>
Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. dc>
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in first st and next 9 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the last row of the sleeve. Turn. dc, 2 ss>
Repeat row 2 & 3 across.
Fasten off.

Seaming

Fold the work in half bringing the seams of the arms together and wrong side facing outwards.
With a strand of yarn and a darning needle, start at the bottom of the main body and whip stitch through both thicknesses.
Once the body is seamed, continue along the underside of the arm and cuff.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Repeat on the other side.
Turn right side out.

Bottom Ribbing

Turn the work right side out and turn ready to work on the bottom edge of the cardigan.
With 5mm hook, with the cardigan opened and right side facing you, join with a ss to the bottom right corner (bottom left if you’re left-handed).

Set up row

Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout) dc in each row end across. Turn.
Change to 4.5mm hook.
Chain 11
Row 1: Dc in back bump of second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. dc, 2 ss>
Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. dc>
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in first st and next 9 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. dc, 2 ss>
Repeat row 2 & 3 across.
Do not fasten off, rotate to work the front opening.

Front Opening Ribbing (with optional buttonholes)

Change to 5mm hook.
Set up row: Ch 1, dc in each st of the bottom ribbing and main body of the cardigan until you reach the neck opening. Rotate work and work 1 dc in each row end of the neck opening. Rotate work and dc in each st of the main body and bottom ribbing. Turn.
Change to 4.5mm hook.
Chain 11

Row 1: Dc in back bump of second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the setup row. Turn. dc, 2 ss>
Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. dc>
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the set-up row. Turn. dc, 2 ss>

If not adding buttonholes:

Repeat Rows 2–3 around.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

If adding buttonholes:

Decide how many buttons you’d like and space the buttonholes evenly along the ribbing. Each buttonhole should replace a Row 2 (the outward/forward row). In my sample, I have added button holes on row 6 and then every 14 rows. I have used 5 buttons in total.
To make a buttonhole row: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in first 3 st, ch 3, skip next 3 st, BLOdc in last 4 sts. Turn. dc, 3 chs>
Next row (Row 3): Ch 1, BLOdc in first 4 sts , 3 dc in ch-3 sp, BLOdc in next 3 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the set-up row. Turn. dc, 3 dc, 2 ss>
Continue repeating Rows 2–3 for the remainder of the ribbing.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Button Placement

Once your ribbing is complete, sew your buttons on the opposite edge of the ribbing, aligning each button directly across from a buttonhole.
Ensure buttons are evenly spaced and sit comfortably when the ribbing is fastened.

Video Tutorials

Right-handed

Or watch on YouTube

Left-handed